Friday, March 9, 2012

IWC Aquatimer Watch Review

Gorgeous, isn't it? This is the IWC Aquatimer 2000, reference 3568-02. Introduced in 2009, the 3568 (the 02 suffix denotes the rubber strap version) replaces the internal-bezel 3548 model. Bolder in design, the 3568 retains the ETA-based 30110 movement (2892-A2 base), but upgrades to a sapphire-coated conventional bezel with spectacular six-layer underside SuperLumiNova. It's also available with bracelet, a white-dial version, and a limited edition with orange-on-white.

The main crystal is domed and anti-reflective on both sides, but the bezel is mirror flat and un-coated, which makes for interesting reflections and highlights. I love the idea of putting lume on the underside of the bezel; that combined with the durability of sapphire makes a bezel that'll remain shiny new for the life of the watch. Brilliant! Even better than the non-lumed Rolex and Omega ceramic bezels. As an aside, there are a handful of other watches with lumed sapphire bezels if you like the look - Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, Omega Ploprof, Bremont Supermarine, and I wouldn't be surprised if others went this route at Basel 2010 and beyond.

Other than the eye-catching yellow, the case and watch are remarkably low-key, with predominantly brushed finishing and a lack of reflective surfaces. In person, it's startlingly low-key due to the mostly-black dial and bezel, and has drawn few if any comments. As you see here, IWC doesn't put crown guards on their divers, which is one of my reservations about the design. I have a friend who lost the screw-down crown and case tube on his Fortis to the strap of a falling carry-on bag, so I would assume this to be less durable than a recessed or guarded crown. An odd design decision on a watch rated to over a mile of depth! (2000m). IWC, rather than adding a helium escape valve, simply designs their divers to cope with a negative pressure rating. A superior piece of engineering for the saturation diver.

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